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What were the first herbal shampoos?

By Chelsie Vandaveer

September 16, 2002

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Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis Linnaeus) is a perennial native to Europe and Asia and naturalized throughout much of North America. Soapwort contains saponin glycosides which hydrolyze and form a foamy colloidal dispersion in water. Saponins are irritating to the mucosal membranes.

When John Gerard wrote The Herbal in 1597, he knew only two uses for soapwort, "It is planted in gardens for the floures sake, to the decking up of houses, for which purpose it chiefly serveth....It is commonly called Saponaria, of the great scouring qualitie that the leaves have: for they yield out of themselves a certaine juyce when they are bruised, which scoureth almost as well as Sope...."

Soapwort Saponaria ocymoides
Originally from the Alps, this low-growing ground cover has a very dense habit and spreads rapidly. The delicate, bright rose-pink flower heads are borne in great profusion forming a lovely carpet. A beautiful option for problem areas with poor soil and intense sunlight. Zones 3-8. #1 plants. Bloom Time: Summer. Height 3".

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Thomas Johnson added in the 1633 edition that decoctions were used for the treatment of syphilis, "that filthy disease". Whereas wealthy patients could afford treatments with mercury (extremely toxic), soapwort "is of somewhat an ungratefull taste and therefore it must be reserved for the poorer sort."

Wounds were a major hazard to the working class. Johnson noted, "Some have commended it to be very good...applied to greene wounds, to hinder inflammation, and speedily to heale them."

Lye soap was not used on the skin and taxes prohibited the purchase of Castilian soap. (See Plants that Changed History, June 25, 2002) Soapwort was the substitute.

Lewis and Elvin-Lewis mentioned its historic use combined with other herbs—chamomile and yarrow for blondes, rosemary for brunettes, and garden sage for dark hair. "The base of a homemade shampoo might be the leaves of Saponaria officinalis (soapwort) with which any herb extract may be mixed for suitable individual results. Thus soapwort (long used in the European countryside as a soap substitute)...made a suitable natural shampoo." (Medical Botany, 1977)

The Missouri Flora Website has several photographs of soapwort including close-ups of the flowers taken by Dan Tenaglia. To view the photographs, click on the link:

http://www.missouriplants.com/Pinkopp/Saponaria_officinalis_page.html

Hi, Dan. Long time, no see.

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Masterwort major

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A charming perennial which will add a little extra flair to your shady and partially shaded areas. Branching heads are composed of neat, pincushion flowers surrounded by ruffs of greenish-white to rose bracts. Masterwort does best in moist soil and will make good ground cover if planted as a group. Very long lasting when cut, it is also commonly used as a dried flower. Astrantia major Zones 4-9. #1 plants. Bloom Time: All Summer. Height 12-24".

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Cevennes Lungwort

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A fabulous shade plant native to the Cevennes Mountains of southern France. This carefree perennial bears bright, violet-blue blooms in spring surrounded by silvery, spotted leaves that stay attractive all summer. Delightful beneath trees, along woodland paths and in pots.

Multiplies annually. Zones 4-9. Pulmonaria longifolia cevennensis #1 plants. Deer resistant. Height: 15". Bloom Time: Mid Spring, Late Spring.

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Red Hardy Pitcher Plant

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Expanded 10-12" leaf stalks extend into pitcher-type ends with solitary nodding cup-shaped blooms in summer. The showy pitchers are white with red veining and secrete nectar that attracts insects. The pitchers remain on the plants throughout the growing season; perfect for a unique border.

Emerald foliage stays attractive all season. Ideal specimen planting or 8-15’ hedge. Plant 6-12’ apart. 12-18" plants.

Sarracenia x ‘Scarlet Belle’ Zone 7 to 9

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Soapwort

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Extremely colorful!

Carefree choice to line sunny banks or cascade over walls.

Forms a thick mat of foliage and lavender flowers 4-10 in. tall. Blooms all summer. Click here - $20 off at Henry Fields Seed and Nursery!

[Ground Covers.]