What was the cotton of Kush?
By Chelsie Vandaveer
February 26, 2002
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Levant cotton (Gossypium herbaceum Linnaeus) is a shrub native to the savannahs of sub-Saharan Africa. It was named for the Levant, the eastern Mediterranean, but its home was along the cataracts of the Nile. Levant cotton was domesticated in the land of Kush (Nubia), today known as the Sudan and Ethiopia.
Kush was a civilization of fabulous wealth from 2500 BCE to 350 CE. The land of Kush was where the Nile curves like an 'S'. Kush and Egypt were 'sister' civilizations. Trade and conflict marked the relationship—Egypt would rule Nubia and Nubia would rule Egypt. The Nubian kingdom supplied the ancient world with goods from the African interior: ivory, diorite for construction, exotic furs, and gold from its desert mines.
The third and final capital of Kush, Meroë, was known for its forges—spears, swords, and tools of iron—and weavers of fine cotton cloth. The last of the Nubian kings were buried in pyramids at Meroë. Little is known of Kush, the written language left on the few ruins of temples and palaces has never been translated. Desert sands and the dammed waters of the Nile have claimed much of Kush.
Levant cotton may have first been domesticated as a food plant; the seeds are boiled and eaten even today. But Levant cotton was carried over the trade routes of the Middle East to Persia, Afghanistan, Turkey, and westward across North Africa to Spain. It is thought the weavers of Meroë may have produced clothing much like the kemi (fitted bodice and full skirt) and shamma (light shawl) worn today in Ethiopia or the striped cotton fabrics of Swahili.
In the Fourth Century BCE, the cotton of the Middle East was replaced by imported fabrics from India. The cultivation and weaving of Levant cotton was left to those who could not afford the Indian fabrics. For all the centuries of cotton cultivation along the upper Nile, the fabric was little used in Egypt until the Ptolemaic Dynasty introduced Indian cotton cultivation.
The Ada Hayden Herbarium of Iowa State University has posted a photograph of a Levant cotton herbarium sheet. To view the sheet, click on the link:
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~herbarium/gossypium.html 
PBS has posted a series, "The Wonders of the African World". To learn more about the ancient Nubian kingdom, click on the link:
http://www.pbs.org/wonders/fr_e1.htm
killerPlants Tendrils: ~~1~~2~~3~~4~~5~~
Suggested Reading:
What was the tree-wool of India? Plants that Changed History - February 19, 2002
What are the African connections to American cotton? Plants that Changed History - March 5, 2002
What is the Mayan cotton tale? Plants that Changed History - March 12, 2002
Why must her host be cancelled to be recognized? Renfield's Garden - February 27, 2002
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Cotton shoulder bag, 'Earth Day'
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Hydrangeas bloom joyously on one side of a shoulder bag while the other depicts an elephant filled with flowers.
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I ordered a shawl made by Thanyarat. It was completely exquisite and I am so pleased. I wish her success and strongly recommend that others purchase her beautiful, wearable art.
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100% alpaca wool coat, 'White Waterfall'
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Patricia Anaya presents a beautiful coat using a stitch that emulates a waterfall. The coat itself cascades gracefully from the shoulders for a very feminine look.
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Turquoise jewelry set, 'Earth Blossoms'
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Full blooming flowers and slender buds mingle in this jewelry set by Leticia Orozco. She works in gleaming sterling silver (0.925).
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Dear Ms Santana, I wrote to you yesterday expressing my admiration for the "mountain and sea" set I received. Today I wore the earrings at work (the whole set is more for the afternoon I think) and everybody (and I mean everybody) at work has commented on how beautiful they are. All women are very jealous! Once more, thank you very much!
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Wool rug, 'Hints of Spring' (2x4)
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Sheep's wool and cotton. Welcoming the first blush of spring, delicate tulipanes (tulips) wake slowly from their cold winter sleep. Their tiny buds squint and extend towards the sky, still reluctant to welcome the full force of the insistent sun. Infused with new growth and beginnings, this versatile rug also makes a wonderful bed throw.
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Cerapio Vallejo
Cerapio Vallejo's artistry has been featured in many periodicals, including Business Week, Sunset magazine, and the San Francisco Chronicle, and on PBS Television. He is also featured in Keepers of the Arts, a beautiful hardcover book available through Novica. "My art form was handed down to me from my parents and grandparents. But the quality of my work is the result of my long experience and the product of my careful observation over the years. I draw inspiration from our ancient Peruvian cultures, Andean village life, and from our snow-capped mountains.
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