What is the tomatl?

By Chelsie Vandaveer

November 22, 2002

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Aztec gardeners cultivated vines producing small, many-seeded berries when Hernan Cortes conquered the civilization. The berries were introduced to Europe where any 'intelligent' person refused to even taste them. The Italians took these berries and created marvelous sauces, the French and Spanish cuisines followed suit.

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John Gerard had two varieties in his garden by 1597--a red described as the size of a goose's egg and a yellow, he called golden apples (Pomum Aureum). In The Herbal (1633 ed.), Gerard officially listed the plants as Poma amoris, or Apples of Love.

The Aztec's tomatl (Lycopersicon esculentum Miller) came back to America where it was again rejected by 'everyone who knew it was poisonous'. According to Peter J. Hatch (2000), director of the Monticello Gardens and Grounds, "Jefferson was a pioneer grower of 'tomatas'. Beginning in 1809, he planted this grudgingly accepted vegetable yearly, usually in a square X near the midpoint of the garden. Jefferson's daughter, Martha, and her daughters, Virginia and Septimia, left numerous recipes that involved tomatoes, including gumbo soups, cayenne-spiced tomato soup, green tomato pickles, tomato preserves and tomato omelets...."

The tomatoes of Jefferson's day were a squat, ribbed variety (Costoluto Genovese) which probably originated in Italy. Thomas J. Randolph wrote of his grandfather, "He ate heartily, and much vegetable food, preferring French cookery, because it made the meats more tender." Although not credited to any specific source, Jeff Smith offers this recipe for tomato salad.

5 ripe large tomatoes		Salt and pepper to taste
2 white onions, Vidalia, Walla Walla, or Bermuda		Parsley, chopped for garnish
1 cup Vinaigrette Dressing

Slice the tomatoes and onions thin. Layer in a bowl and add the dressing and the salt and pepper. Allow to marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours before serving. Top with the parsley garnish.

The vinaigrette dressing:

½ teaspoon oregano		1 cup olive oil
½ teaspoon rosemary		1/3 cup white wine vinegar
¼ teaspoon Colman's dry English mustard		2 tablespoons water
½ teaspoon sugar		2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt		2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
¼ freshly ground black pepper		1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Place the dry ingredients in food blender or food processor. Using the metal blade, grind for a few moments. Add the liquids and whip to an emulsion, or until it is thick. Store in refrigerator for at least 1 ½ hours before using. (Recipes from The Frugal Gourmet Cooks American, 1987, Avon Books)

The University of Vermont, Burlington grew and tested several heirloom varieties of tomatoes. Posted on this page are photographs of these berries. Costoluto Genovese is in the lower right corner:

http://www.uvm.edu/~pass/tignor/heirloom.htm

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